Page 53 - Baking Europe Journal - Winter 2022

FOOD FOR THOUGHT
PANDEMIC CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR 53

“When the world looks like a

dangerous and uncertain place

consumers increasingly turn

to the security and familiarity
provided by well known,

recognisable brands.”

suggest that bread-making might be looks like a dangerous and uncertain
considered a therapeutic activity. g place consumers increasingly turn to
One other part of the story might be the security and familiarity provided
the link to the tactile stimulation that by well known, recognisable brands
preparing bread so naturally provides, over the experiential, experimental
given the widespread increase in food and drink off erings. Sweetness
‘touch hunger’ that has been too can also, potentially, be
documented amongst many people reassuring.
in society, in recent years. h
Another reason for changing food
Comfort foods are defi ned as those behaviour during the pandemic
that can provide something of an undoubtedly relates to people’s
emotional crutch whenever we feel reduced willingness and/or ability to
threatened. What else could explain go shopping: indeed, worldwide
i
the more than 700% increase in sales Google searches for “food delivery”
of instant trifl e!? These are clearly and “local food” reached all-time
nostalgic fl avours that remind us of highs in April, 2020, with people in
happy earlier times. the UK being six times more likely to
look for “veg boxes” than before the
Documented sales of powdered pandemic. As of the start of October,
l
custard and instant mash also surged 2020, those living in the UK had
during lockdown, as shoppers rushed apparently already cooked half a
to fi nd the emotional security billion more meals under lockdown,
provided by comfort food. None of with sales of steak up by 40%. The
j
m
these foods, note, requiring a suggestion being that people were
functioning set of mandibles (i.e., trying to recreate restaurant meals at
notice the total absence of home. Not surprising given how many
challenging textures in these foods). high-end producers have struggled to
Given that the texture of the crust is deliver an experience in the home
such a key part of the appeal of that matches what can be expected
freshly-baked bread, it is perhaps not in a high-end restaurant or posh
so surprising to fi nd that it does not bakery. n
regularly appear in lists of people’s
favourite comfort foods. Ultimately, however, I can’t help but
wonder about whether the delectable
In the UK, sales of nostalgia food smell was also part of the story of
brands– think Spam, Smash, Fray homemade bread during lockdown,
Bentos, and the like – also increased given how much more time so many
during lockdown. When the world of us were forced to be at home
k

BAKINGEUROPE Winter 2022/2023
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